Words & Photography: Simran Kaur

Make it stand out

I need to first say that this time I got quite ill during fashion week - we all work a lot and sleep for two hours and while I think it is worth it if you need to get work done, I also think it is completely not healthy and possibly inhumane.
During this fashion week, I was looking for more humanity: which was present within some people but generally, I felt it was missing throughout. The amount of people that just want to connect but not have an actual conversation is a lot, and then the next time they say hi they expect you to remember them, as if just getting my Instagram makes me know them. I found more humanity in the clubs at night, than at the catwalks and presentations.
It also seems like that now in fashion, more than ever, we are looking into more ways of saving money, using less materials, being resourceful and I wonder if that's also why I saw so much creativity within some of the catwalks or showrooms I went to.
There is a lot of play with metamorphosis: Pieces that change shape, form or even colours. It also gives customers free space to work on fashion as a canvas. For example, Litkovska had an extra blank label on the top of the brand's label to write your name - or whatever you want - on it.
Paris Fashion Week is showing that fashion is pushing people to be more about their own identities, to find themselves instead of trying to be something they are not.
I wonder if it is also because of how involved music was this year in terms of audiences. Talking about music - in the clubs and on the dance floor, everyone was vibing and dancing much more than in London. People are more together here, rather than left alone to themselves. All in all, the week was shaped by my friendships and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Day 1

Okada

While walking to the spot, I was feeling so hot. I arrived in Paris wearing 4 layers because it was cold in London. I arrived here and it is still hot! Luckily, Okada's presentation welcomes me with a glass of water first and then, of course, some champagne while we walk around and look at the clothes upstairs. Each room had some of her beautifully crafted garments with soft colours. The rooms had this really old Parisian Victorian era vibe which fit very well with Okada's chill and elegant vibes.

Within the craft of each piece, I could see her Japanese heritage coming through while the structure was still Parisian. She also had some of her sketches and moodboards around the rooms, not too many to give away too much, but to show enough of her personal way of working.

The colours all together reminded me of a bouquet of flowers but divided in pieces. I wonder if you mix the pieces, you would still get a harmonious balance exactly like a bouquet of flowers?

When I walked away, I noticed that they were having a shoot on the right yet on the left, I saw that Okada's store was just outside the door - almost as if it was inviting people to go in there after the presentation.

Matieres Fecales Paris - feat. Tsunaina and omg RIRI!?!?!

My friend Tsunaina decided to invite me to Matieres Fecales, which I was really excited for. She was wearing Rick Owens and before going in, we took some photos. While we were walking into the venue, I got stopped, but thank the gods of fashion and whoever, I got in anyway because someone knew who I was.

This person from Lucien Pages remembers how much I love the lemon macarons they have at their showroom in London. I laugh.

I got a spot in the dark corner of the front of the house, and someone told me Rihanna is about to pull up with a car and show up to the catwalk. I thought it was a joke until I asked someone in production and they said it was true. I was about to jump around with how excited I was.

I put myself together, jumped to the front, aimed my camera and yes - I got my shots! I sent a photo to my mom because she is a huge Rihanna fan and she was soooo happy for me.

Imagine me taking this photo and feeling all of these emotions at once but then the catwalk starts and my heart starts running around.

I loved how the whole catwalk felt like a theatre show with a story line. For me this was all about regaining control of ourselves. With the start being peaceful and the middle being rebellious, to then going into glorious and strong.

It felt like I was watching someone's life going through cycles, with the colours changing slowly into glitters and more cosmic looks. Heritage was a massive highlight and it helped break the ice of exclusivity that surrounds fashion. It felt quite human to me to sit there and watch this cycle that ends into a sense of freedom.

My question now is, what does Riri think?

Day 2

Ganni

I entered the presentation, which was in the same spot as last year! And honestly I can't complain, I think it is my favourite venue in Paris. On the top floor they had this bed which was very inviting to sleep on. I was looking into having a nap, which would have been nice.

Then I run downstairs, and I fall down. Great.

I have a coffee and cinnamon bun, like the last time, and then I'm handed a juice and this juice was THE JUICE. You know I felt good after it.

The presentation itself felt like a home. It reminded me a lot of my mom in a way, and funny enough the theme was clearly nostalgia. The presentation was very colourful and fun - a lot of the outfits had layers, the heels were so cute and they had these low kitten heels which were easy to slip on. Everything to me seemed extremely tailored to moms! With a lot of comfortable and practical pieces, but also very elegant.

I loved the massive sofa downstairs, and would love one for my house. There was also a family photo next to it with two models posing. On the fridges there were magnets, stickers, photos, drawings and inside them were these cute Ganni branded drinks! On some of the tables and benches there were album photos with the looks from the campaign.

I felt so at home, I actually called my mom afterwards. I was asking her if she remembers when she used to pick me up from school as a kid with her bicycle and how she used to bring me Kinder chocolates. She remembers it very well - she also remembers how bad I was at riding my bike and how many times I would just love to try to do bike tricks and fall down.

Lou Menais

I was not invited to this brand presentation, but I saw it online and was very drawn towards it. I had a shoot to go to after this, so I snuck in for an hour and I'm glad I did.

She had this brand for a while and then she got pregnant with her kid and life took over her. She just flowed with the life change and let herself feel and do whatever was coming to her without forcing the brand to exist. While she was living her mom life - which she still does, of course - she was always attracted by shapes, colours and bits that are now shaping the brand currently.

The catwalk felt like a continuation of what I was talking about on the phone with my mom after the Ganni presentation, which is quite funny. It is almost as if my whole experience this year has been all about investigating my childhood and my family and helping me to create and understand the things around me.

Everything felt familiar but also really blurry, almost as if I stepped into a memory from years ago. I'm not sure what to add to this, I don't think I can write about how I felt so I will just let the photos breathe for this one :)

Elvira - @elviradelroc10 - music gig

I finally went to see my friend Elvira's show. She always has this theatrical appearance going on, and I really wanted to go and document her live.

The show was at Point Ephemere near the canal. We met outside with her friends, one of whom I met last time at Pamela. It is always nice to see online and old faces again, even in a city that isn’t mine

Alvira was wearing this black tutu and top with long sleeves. It gave her this great silhouette, which helps with the shadow play behind the sheet she had. I loved the light tricks and the music was amazing.

She has such a unique vision and being there to capture it made me feel full in my heart while also being proud of her

Slophia - at Cobrasnake and Lucila Safdie - party

Me and the girl from Pamela decided to go to the next party - we walked there while talking about how funny the streets of Paris are at night.

We get there. I grab us a massive table from where you could see the DJ decks, the people coming in and out and going to smoke, while also giving us a good distance from anyone that I didn't want to talk to.

We sat there with our drinks, vibing and talking about things like removing yourself from people and rooms, not wanting to talk to people that did you wrong. The usual stuff. I love having a little girly talk and honestly she is the best. More friends arrive that we make sit with us and just chill. I love seeing all the people I raised up in this industry with.

Slophia finally gets on the DJ decks. I went to her when she started playing my friend Digitalism's song. I took some photos of her and some friends over there - but not too many. I wanted to keep this party chill and to connect more with people.

It was cute, although I actually felt very annoyed because someone I know kept passing in front of me and was trying to ignore me visibly, but also look at me, and I was like dude just come and talk. I ended up going up to them at the end and saying bye but whatever, I'm sure he knows I saw him. I guess he wanted me to come to him - Men are weird and funny, but he is a nice and kind person, I just don't know what's up.

Day 3

Vaquera - with @samquealy

Sam was going to Vaquera so we decided to do a mini photoshoot before the show started. She was definitely serving cunt!

Because of her, I was also able to go to Vaquera and live the whole experience for myself. I definitely have to say that I didn't know too much about the brand but I was very invested - I decided to close myself in the toilet to do my little stalking and plotting before the show, to get up to date.

I did catch my friend @bbyafricka finally! I have been hoping to do something with them for a really long time, so we finally got some photos done at the event. It felt amazing to talk to her for a bit.

The catwalk starts and one by one I see the looks coming down the stairs. It very much reminded me of NYC and Paris, a balanced mix. It reminded me of my friend coming from NYC, trying to understand the Parisian vibe, then finding his own way in where he wants to be.

The crazy colours, the elegant structures, the strong walks. The make up, the hair, everything had a good harmony. It is almost as if I was watching a person being themselves, but trying to also blend into a new they didn't know.

Kitsune - music event - Silencio Club

I was working for Kitsune for the event they put together. One of the DJs was a friend of mine so I had already decided I would deffo stay until 6 am haha.

Silencio is absolutely amazing, my favourite part is the green room. It is small but I think it is very practical and nicely made. I love the counter table with the artist's riders, which of course, I always grab stuff from.

I decide to just go by the DJ decks and wait for the DJ to start doing its magic. I circled, standing on the sofa, standing next to the DJ, standing from the other side to see what's going on. All this for videos and pictures - I love it always and in between, I can always dance the night away and have a bit of the vodka I like. But not too much! Just enough to make you feel goooooood.

The crowd was a good mix of fans of Kitsune, friends of DJs, young and old people. It was such a nice balance which also created an incredible vibe. I was vibing so much at some point that I decided to turn off my camera and just chill with my friend.

Day 4

Jenny Fax

As usual it was a presentation - which we love! I love Jenny's presentations as she has such beautiful theatrical shows and this time I actually got to ask her what she is inspired by.

She is inspired by her childhood mostly, but also the idea that you should be humble and not show your joy too much. You can definitely see it through her brand identity and presentation.

This time we had girls in a house, but the models were looking more tired and low energy. Kind of like they were stuck in a daydream, and we were part of it, but just watching. This was translated to the models, who were moving slowly and softly, like they just woke up.

It’s cute but with an underline of melancholy - as if we want to be happy but are not allowed to show it and therefore we wear it. The colours of the collection are also quite dulled down but still has pastel colours incorporated, doubling down on the idea of happiness being clouded and dulled down.

Vaillant

Last minute one! Me and Fatanna met up outside Jenny Fax and spent some time together. We ended up in Vaillant's studio, as in the actual place where they create the prototypes. The presentation was mostly about jackets inspired by old pilots' jackets. I really liked the coats, especially the massive sheep-like fur. It looks cozy.

My favourite part of this presentation was easily the office area - where we saw all the moodboards, sketches and looks. Even the catwalk I saw last season was pinned up along with multiple fabric pieces and swatches put together. I love to imagine how they study these pieces and put together the colours and shapes.

I have to also add that I love how the brand has been playing with colours but also with the idea of sleek. They put together these vibes last time on the catwalk and I think it felt like a sour candy. Sweet but lethal, almost giving some Avril Lavagne's cute indie era, but more mature.

United freaks music event - polsound, lipstains

I was originally here only for my friend lipstains, but then I saw the line up also had other people like polsound who are also pals of mine.

Me, lipstains and united freaks - the team - had a dinner at the restaurant upstairs in Soho House. We were just hanging out before the event but then the event itself felt more of a hang out, since everyone I knew was there drinking and talking.

The event was a collaboration with Cold magazine and Emma Winder. I met Emma in June in Paris at a party and since then we have been friends. Everytime I see her it feels like a party.

Day 5

Jitrois

It’s always nice to come back to Jitrois and visit their headquarters and see their designs Last time it was a catwalk but this time it was a nice presentation with champagne. The room was completely white, which made the colourful outfits and accessories pop out a bit more from the background of the room and stand out from all the people that were wearing black.

When I think of Jitrois, people like Lady Gaga come to mind. Their black leathers and pop-like pieces that definitely stand out from any kind of crowds, but equally are colourful and fun. Perfect for a Gaga Ball.

1ldk show by @White.garden - music event

I arrived early to say hi to 1Idk and get to know them - They are from Tokyo but one of them was born in Amsterdam and has moved to Tokyo. Their songs have always been fun and playful, but seeing their gig live was another kind of experience with the light design that was crafted based on the vibe of each song.

There was so much energy within the stage and so many young people full of energy going crazy as they should! I absolutely loved being there and documenting their set while also just enjoying the show as it was.

Day 6

Lettone

It was my first time seeing this brand and honestly I was very happy to be there, not just because some of my old friends were there too. The first thing that struck me was the location - it was just all stone inside with a faint scent of incense. It felt like a very peaceful contract before the chaos of the catwalk.

The colour palettes of the designer were perfectly in harmony with each other - even though there were more block colours in between the white, black and red colours, it felt structural.

My favourite look was definitely this red top/jacket! I shot it behind this glass wall and I think it just looked like an organic part of the environment we were in.

Moving onto the actual catwalk, I loved how the clothes didn't move an inch while the models were walking around. The structural motif held throughout, reminiscent of origami.

Dorian Electra - Live From Earth in Paris

When I say this was the best part of this week in Paris, I mean it! I absolutely loved it so much - I was so happy to see my pal Dorian again.

Dorian is probably one of the best people I met this year, alongside Soph. They feel real and in touch with reality, which helps especially during fashion week when the lines between real and not blur so easily.

They actually played one of their new songs and a new remix at their set - it was absolutely sensational. People were feeling it so much that they were breaking from the standing still mould of being an aloof statue. The audience was actively participating and jumping around, they totally felt it with their heart instead of just filming it. I felt like I was transported to another universe through the music.

Day 7

Litkovska

This is the last PFW event I attended and it was a special one. I wanted to see the Litkovska showroom since I couldn’t go to the show on the 6th, and I was very happy to receive their email saying that I could come to their showroom as I can't come to the catwalk. I got to see the clothes up close and also understand the brand deeper and see how I'm also connected to it.

Their identity revolves all around being yourself - seeing changes in people as a metamorphosis, which translates into multiple ways of wearing their pieces. They had bags that could unzip and zip in various ways. The tops, bottoms and dresses were also something you could layer or tie and untie in different ways.

I think a lot of customers nowadays look for pieces that you can wear again, you tailor your way and are multi purpose. We all want something that lasts and can be styled differently everyday.

Secret Diary of a Photographer at Paris Fashion Week