Secret Diary of a Photographer at Paris Fashion Week
Words and pPhotography: Simran Kaur
Make it stand out
This Paris Fashion Week, photographer Simran Kaur was our eyes and ears on the ground - here’s Simran’s diary from across the week, from sitting out front at the shows, to making memories backstage <3
Day 1
I have arrived to Paris on the 2nd of March, right at the beginning of Paris Fashion Week, as if it was a good choice to get a Eurostar in the morning and get up at 2 am. Whatever, c’est la vie lol. I have my Uber dropping me off at the station, and the motion of the train making me fall asleep while listening to all the songs I have liked since 2020 or something, and boom we are in Paris just like that. One day you go to sleep in London, and you wake up in Paris at 9:30 am. I walk to my friend's place, eat crepes that her flatmate made, chill, watch a cloud pass by, do some work, block my ex who wanted to call me.
I did NYFW and LFW ofc, but I never do Milan cause Paris is a lot and I need a gap to chill and work in London. First show is the IFM Masters graduation show. First of all, I lie - I don’t have backstage access, but I still go in cause why not? I walk in while listening to Demons by Fenech Soler. I steal a croissant and get to work. Whatever catches my eye, that's what I capture.
Backstage at IFM Masters
Running downstairs to edit my reel. I like doing these 15 secs or so reels almost to capture or showcase a memory. Everyone leaving the room is happy and full of energy. I think this is the perfect opening for PFW and I hope whoever is reading this didn't miss it.
I finish up and run to the next show.
Documenting the backstage of Vautrait makes me feel good. There is something nostalgic about the bricks in the wall - I guess for a minute I remember London. Running upstairs without falling down, I go into the food area, steal four tomatoes, some cheese and green pesto and then this man gives me some bread. This is my lunch.
Vautrait
The show starts, the people are set, my camera is on. Up and down the models go from the backstage to the top part of the catwalk, then coming back to us in FOH, each of them carrying a sense of elegance and presence. I love all the flats, a sensible choice considering the gaps in the floors. The gloves, hats, bags are giving “I'm ready for the ride of my life on the top of a horse”. I grew up in such a countryside Italian town, and I myself have always imagined galloping into the horizon within a field.
Day 2
Editing until 1am everyday when I'm in Paris and now it’s Day 2. I go to see BonBom’s show. I thank the catering from the bottom of my heart as they have bags we can fill and take away - like, that's rare, please do that more. I pull the shutter of my camera, and one by one as if I ask for it each model shows me their personality without me telling them. I feel in that moment I synced with them. We are present in the moment.
BonBom
As I walk into the front of house, I keep thinking about the huge, beautiful hats the models are wearing, and these simple and elegant heels. The catwalk starts and the music sets the vibe. I feel and see the classic Parisian woman walking down the street in the morning before work, grabbing her newspaper and coffee and going into the day with fierce eyes and messy hair.
I run to the toilet, mess my hair, smudge my eye makeup and put that Tom Ford lipstick on. I restyle my outfit to feel cunty and go into the Poster Girl and Only Fans event. Love it.
At the Poster Girl event
Day 3
Next morning I warm up a cinnamon bun, eat it with my coffee for a moment of bliss before going to Susan Fang. I let the sun kiss my cheek while walking to the showroom, where I am greeted by a smile. I have the amazing opportunity to take some fun photos with a model and to also meet Susan! Many years ago, my stylist got some of her pieces for an editorial, and it has always been one of my dreams to meet her. The moment she enters the room I can feel her uplifting energy and suddenly I can see how her collection and pieces are simply a reflection of her, truly. She shows up with some Japanese candies and I fall in love.
At the Susan Fang showroom
Day 4
My back hurts. Have a coffee. Rush to this shoot, and then do a bit for Dior. Nothing crazy just taking some photos and a video from the outside. Someone at Dior I guess feels bad that they couldn't get me in yesterday. The lightness of the garments translates really well through the shadows and the movement. I thank the daylight for highlighting this phenomenon.
I have my lunch finally. Korean chicken fixes anything. A cigarette on the way to Jenny Fax and now we are here. The presentation is about family affairs, discovering family dynamics. It reminds me of how I used to gather with my cousins back in India. We used to play Uno cards and look into old things in our grandparents’ house. The fog adds to the memory by making it look like a dream.
Jenny Fax
The casting is amazing as per usual, everyone has their own personality placed on display. Literally like a family. I run into some of my friends who I am really happy to see. Fashion week can sometimes get really lonely, especially when you are running from one show to another. I try sometimes to have dinner or a coffee with people I wanna meet.
I get into Gauchere's show right when it is about to start. For some reason the collection reminds me of my mom. I remember seeing her in some photos wearing similar clothes in Italy before she had me. She is such a beautiful woman, and I think she would love Gauchere.
Gauchere
Next, I arrive at Palais de Tokyo for Vaillant.
The shows starts. They have a spotlight at the end of the catwalk near the entrance, and the model, as she walks in, looks like a character from a movie. It is beautiful. Once again there is a lot of hats. My favourite look was the one with the long skirt at the end, the way it moved it was delicate like the wind.
Vaillant
I go to see The Teenagers in the evening. I have been a huge fan of them for many years and push myself to go, but it’s amazing and I feel like a part of me is fulfilled. Happy I get to capture the feeling through my lens!
After having some ice cream, I run to Georges Hobeika's backstage to capture some short moments. I have fun with one of models, just documenting the process.
Backstage at Georges Hobeika
I then go to the front of house and as we wait for people to sit down, I take a nap. I need it, I can’t go on without closing my eyes for 30 minutes at least. I wake up to a dreamlike track and the models walking in. They look like they’re wearing shining armour made of beads. Lighting is a big thing during catwalks and presentations for sure: it not only shows the clothes' details, but it also creates the mood. But then of course it is also up to how you capture it. I love shooting my catwalks in landscape to give a feeling of a movie.
My last show of the day before my beer with a friend is Boyarovskaya at Instituto Matagoni. It’s a small presentation and really simple, but I love the idea of the two models in between the mannequins trying to blend in. I don't like reading too much into things, but I want to say that maybe this is a commentary on how we try to blend in rather than stand out.
Day 5
I'm about to board the Eurostar back to London so here is my conclusion about PFW. I think this time I have learned a lot more than last time, because I started trusting my gut a bit more instead of ignoring how I feel about things around me.
This season, glitters and shimmers were present in a lot of the shows and presentations, but in general you can see a lot of elements of military uniform elements like the hats, or even pencil skirts and so on. With all these colours and shimmers, I see more hope in the darkness we are surrounded by.
One thing I wish I’d seen more is different kinds of casting, and more body representation. At Jenny Fax, the casting was amazing and so diverse, it was really refreshing to see, and I wish more brands did that too. Overall, I can't wait to come back again maybe in June for menswear and then in September for women. I will miss my friends and the new people I have met!