How to Cowboy: A Guide to Styling the Americana Favourite
Words: Katy Cutbirth
As the new fashion director for Polyester, it’s only right that I begin sharing my views on fashion with you all regularly. I thought the best place to start would be my home state of Texas!
In movies, on my favourite musicians, and basically any time I step out of the house, the global appeal of the cowboy and Western style never ceases to amaze me. I see takes on the look constantly and I have some strong opinions on what makes a good cowboy look.
To a Texan, denim and boots are a hardworking and functional combo. This skin-covering duo keeps the poison ivy and stickers away, and saves you if you accidentally run into a barbed-wire fence (this I know from experience).
I would also wear them to bars and the rodeo as a subtle way to say “I belong here.” Throughout my younger years I went through phases of hating and loving my roots and the fashion that went along with it, but after 10 years in London, wearing denim and boots helps me to feel connected to my home and family and are the most worn items in my wardrobe.
As a fan of a good boot, I find myself increasingly aware of the different ways people in London wear their cowboy boots. While I will forever support the freedom of expression, I do think there is a best way to style yourself western and not look like a sorority girl or you’re wearing a costume: for me the beauty of this look is the simplicity of it and how, when worn right, it doesn’t matter how expensive your jeans are or what brand your boots are. You can spend £100 or £10,000 and still achieve this look. The appeal of the sexy cowboy or cowgirl with second skin jeans and a perfect boot is universal and has transcended the boundaries of Texas or dirt roads and pickup trucks. So how do we dress like a cowboy for our everyday in the right way (according to an expert, aka me)?
Step One: The Reference
When trying to figure out a new look I always try to find a reference point. Some movies that inspire my cowboy looks include Thelma and Louise, Dazed and Confused, Cat Bollu, Urban Cowboy, Brokeback Mountain, and Wild at Heart, plus an honourable mention for the TV show Friday Night Lights. Bella Hadid has recently become the poster child for western wear street style, and she’s done it so well she even managed to bag the cowboy. Bella has nailed making the style her own, mixing true Texan staples with archive designer pieces that feel like they were made to go together.
Speaking of, designers haven’t shied away from the cowboy aesthetic on the runway either. Some of my favourite shows are from the Raf Simons years at Calvin Klein where the looks felt effortless and sexy. Ralph Lauren’s Fall 1978 collection is also one to look through: think big belt buckles, bandanas, plaid and fringe! While you’re at it, go through images of Mr. Ralph Lauren himself who has the most enviable personal style and is a bottomless pit of inspiration.
Whether your reference is the runway or Susan Sarandon, you’ll find an attitude and easy cool factor. This is a style so inherently sexy without even showing much skin that it’s impossible to not feel confident wearing it. The slight height in the heel on the boot combined with the tight jeans gives your posture a boost and forces you to walk with a bit of a strut, so you’ll be feeling like Bella Hadid in no time.
Step Two: The Perfect Jeans
The iconic Brooke Shields’ Calvin Klein advert is a great style reference for what these jeans should look like. The jeans should be super tight: bonus point if you have to lie down to put them on. Straight leg or slight boot cut, the leg should be a bit long so they scrunch up just slightly where they meet the boot. I’m partial to a mid-rise but this can be debated.
You really can’t go wrong with a vintage pair of Levis, and my advice is to go get stuck in a vintage store and try on every pair until you find the perfect ones. You’re looking for a rigid non-stretch jean. My favourites of all time are from NY based brand, Khaite, in the style Danielle, but these do always seem to be sold out. ReDone do great options too and their ‘Mel’ jean, which is made in collab with Mel Ottenberg, is just perfection. When it comes to colour or wash you have lots of options. Dark denim feels more polished, while a super light wash is worn in and casual. I also love a black jean for the city as it feels really modern.
Step Three: The Boots
Now in my humble opinion, jeans should always be worn over boots and under no circumstance should the jean be tucked in! A snip toe or a squared off pointed toe looks great, just not too pointed or too squared (my top picks are linked below). The holy grail of boots are from a brand called Lucchese, they’re handmade in Texas and so beautiful. They’ll last you forever and only get better with age so I recommend splurging a bit here if you see yourself wearing them often: I’ve had some of mine for over 15 years. eBay and other resale platforms are great places to start and you can get amazing styles for a fraction of the cost, with bonus points if they’re already broken in for you.
Step Four: The Rest of the Look
Now you’ve got your jeans and boots sorted, what do you wear with it? The beauty of this outfit is its simplicity. Jeans and boots are best worn with a well fitting vintage t-shirt or tank top. This outfit should feel like you really haven’t tried too hard but a good belt helps and can keep those tight jeans from busting open. I’ve linked more favourite’s here and a couple wild options for those that need some extra flare. Throw on some sunglasses and you’re ready to go.
So now you know how to dress like a cowboy, in my preferred way, but in the same breath I will say that rules are meant to be broken, and if Solange in the first image says anything it’s that boots definitely don’t even need pants to be worn perfectly.
Jean recommendations: ReDone (Mel collab really good) £245, Mother (Paige Reifer collab is also very good) £285, Levis 501 £100, Khaite Danielle Jean £450
Boot recommendations: Lucchese Boots £229, Ganni Faux Leather Boots £625, Lucchese Nicole Boots £726
Top recommendations: Vintage White T-shirt £66, Calvin Klein by Raf Simons Denim Shirt £59, Our Legacy Flannel Shirt £290, Our Legacy Denim Vest £295, Citizens of Humanity Henley £160, Cou Cou Intimates Baby Tee £54
Other recommendations: Our Legacy Belt £170, Open YY Belt £130, Ruslan Baginskiy Cowboy Hat £370, Khaite Belt £500, Thistles Sunglasses £206, YSL Jacket £374
